Look 100 was a long ruffled cape ethereal and nearly weightless, it was made with “an almost scientific construction,” he explained, with geometric black-and-white patterns surgically cut and assembled from tiny pieces of organza, Chantilly lace, and point d’ésprit.Īccording to Piccioli, his men’s couture is thriving, as is apparently also the case for other couture maisons. On a similar note, Piccioli offered his own take on Valentino’s black-and-white theme, rooted in an appreciation for Roman mosaics as well as for the Art Deco aesthetic of the Viennese Secession of the 1930s. For the history books, he indulged in a few reinterpretations of Valentino Garavani’s favorite themes look 1 was a ultra-short, boule-shaped, slightly padded piumino/cape hybrid blooming with huge Valentino-red 3D taffeta roses, worn over a mini jumpsuit in red sequins it was inspired by the famous Fiesta dress Garavani made for his first collection. The collection he sent out was spectacular, its supreme sophistication toning down its overtly theatrical effects. But in its higher expressions, fashion belongs to the realm of healing creativity, and can also be a messenger of joy, poetry, and visual pleasure. “Fashion differs from art, in that art just serves itself, while fashion has to deal with the body that’s why fashion can have a strong say on social issues like acceptance of diversity, or standing for human rights,” said Piccioli. Even if the extraordinary details of Piccioli’s creations were a bit lost from the distance, his colorist talent made them impactful, especially in the finale, with models composing a breathtaking tableau vivant, where Pierpaolo’s painterly sensibility couldn’t be missed. With the sunset bathing the steps in a golden light and a soulful soundtrack by Labrinth, it was difficult not to succumb to the spellbinding effect. “I wanted them to sit and watch the show, and not be left outside the crush.” That’s why he invited 120 students from Rome’s fashion schools to the show. “I still remember so well the feeling of being at the periphery of such an awe-inspiring event,” he said. What makes the difference are the people who wear it, the human approach-and that’s the story I like to tell.” The same design can be interpreted in completely different ways six months or six years after it has been created. “But that’s the way I feel, because every beginning brings about the idea of a promise, and of the future.” This is also a concept inherent to the couture practice, “because couture is a continuous beginning, as you have always to start anew, without predetermined patterns or maps. And I know that talking about beginnings sounds oxymoronic,” he mused. Rather, he called it, “an ideal conversation with the house’s lexicon, which I wanted to do in a more conscious way. He explained that after 23 years working for the maison, he felt the need to “understand how much of myself there is in today’s Valentino, and how much of Valentino there is in my identity.” He was adamant in refusing that this was a celebratory moment, or any sort of homage. In a sort of counterintuitive turn of phrase, he called the collection The Beginning. He described it as “the closing of a circle.” Piccioli wanted this fashion show to start right where the original sartoria di Alta Moda was located, with models bravely walking down the 136 slippery travertine stairs to reach Palazzo Mignanelli. The first atelier was located in Via Gregoriana, a narrow cobblestone street winding down from the church of Trinità dei Monti, which sits at the top of the Spanish Steps. Valentino Garavani founded his eponymous maison de couture in 1959, together with his partner Giancarlo Giammetti. “This is a deeply personal collection, because it’s all about the history of Valentino,” Piccioli said at a pre-show press conference, held at the label’s headquarters in Piazza Mignanelli. Today he just threaded another pearl in his repertoire, staging the fall Valentino collection on Rome’s Spanish Steps, an almost sacred place so dense in strata of history, meaning, and symbolism that it has become a sort of meta-entity. He approaches the metier with consummate confidence, and the record of his memorable shows grows longer by the season. Pierpaolo Piccioli is at ease in the world of couture.
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